By John McKinney
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San Clemente State Beach
From State Beach to San Mateo Point is 3 miles round trip
"Our beach shall always be free from hurdy-gurdies and defilement. We believe beauty to be an asset as well as gold and silver, or cabbage and potatoes."
This was the pledge of Norwegian immigrant Ole Hanson, who began the town of San Clemente in 1925. It was quite a promise from a real estate developer, quite a promise in those days of shameless boosterism a half-century before the California Coastal Commission was established.
Thanks is part to Hanson's vision, some of the peaceful ambiance of San Clemente, which he regarded as "a painting 5 miles long and a mile wide" has been preserved. And some of its isolation, too. Most everyone in the real estate community thought Hanson crazy for building in a locale 66 miles from San Diego, 66 miles from Los Angeles, but today this isolation attracts rather than repels. This isolation was one of the reasons President Richard Nixon (1969-74) established his Western White House on the bluffs above San Clemente Beach.
San Clemente State Beach is a great place for a walk. The beach is mercifully walled off from the din of the San Diego Freeway and the confusion of the modern world by a handsome line of tan-colored bluffs. Only the occasional train passing over Santa Fe Railroad tracks (located near the shore) interrupt the cry of the gull, the roar of the breakers. The trestles located at the south end of the beach at San Mateo Point give Trestles Beach its name.
Trestles Beach is one of the finest surfing areas on the west coast. When the surf is up, the waves peel rapidly across San Mateo Point, creating a great ride. Before the area became part of the state beach, it was restricted government property belonging to Camp Pendleton Marine Base. For well over 25 years, surfers carried on guerrilla warfare with U.S. Marines.
Trespassing surfers were chased, arrested and fined, and on many occasions had their boards confiscated and broken in two. Find a veteran surfer and he'll tell you about escapes from jeep patrols and guard dogs. Many times, however, the cool marines would charitably give surfers rides while out on maneuvers.
This hike's destination, San Mateo Point, is the northernmost boundary of San Diego County, the beginning of Orange County. When the original counties of Los Angeles and San Diego were set up in 1850, the line that separated them began on the coast at San Mateo Point. When Orange County was formed from southern Los Angeles County in 1889, San Mateo Point was established as the southern point of the new county.
The enthusiastic, with the time and inclination can easily extend this beach-hike several miles south to San Onofre State Beach. Another option worth considering is to take the train to San Clemente and walk south from the Amtrak station.
San Clemente Beach
Directions to trailhead: From the San Diego Freeway (I-5) in San Clemente, exit on Avenida Calafia and head west 0.5 mile to Calafia Beach Park, where there is metered parking. You can also park for the usual entrance fee at San Clemente State Beach. A limited amount of free parking is available in the residential area near the state beach. -
North-bound motorists on I-5 will exit at Cristianitos Raod, turn left and go over the freeway onto Ave. Del Presidente and drive a mile north to the parks.
Begin this hike from the state beach at the day-use area. Look for two signed beach trails.
The hike: From Calafia Beach Park, cross the railroad tracks, make your way down an embankment and head south.
From the state beach day use area, choose the northern beach access trail which descends the bluffs. You then step over the railroad tracks to the beach. Or take the southern beach access trail, which leads to a pedestrian underpass beneath the tracks to the beach.
As you’ll soon see, San Clemente State Beach is frequented by plenty of shorebirds, as well as plenty of surfers, body surfers, and swimmers.
At distinct San Mateo Point, which marks the border of Orange and San Diego counties, you'll find San Mateo Creek. The headwaters of the creek rise way up in the Santa Ana Mountains above Camp Pendleton. A portion of the creek is protected by the Cleveland National Forest's San Mateo Canyon Wilderness. Rushes, salt grass and cattails line the creek mouth, where sand pipers, herons and egrets gather.
You can ford the creek mouth (rarely a problem except after winter storms) and continue south toward San Onofre State Beach and the giant domes of San Onofre Nuclear Power Plant. Or you can return the same way.
Or here's a third alternative, an inland return route: Walk under the train trestles and join the park service road, which is usually filled with surfers carrying their boards. The service road takes you up the bluffs, where you'll join the San Clemente Coastal Bike Trail, then wind through a residential area to an entrance to San Clemente State Beach Campground.
Improvise a route through the campground to the park's entry station and join the self-guiding nature trail. The path descends through a prickly pear- and lemonade berry-filled draw to Calafia Beach Park and the trailhead. The wind and water-sculpted marine terraces just south of the trailhead resemble Bryce Canyon in miniature and are fun to photograph.
If you want to walk the whole nature trail, you'll walk up to site #70 in the campground, then retrace your steps (100 yards or so) back to the Calafia Beach parking lot.
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